Part 2: A Yamaguchi Day Trip — Hagi, Camellias & Motonosumi Shrine

A stunning view of Motonosumi Inari Shrine, where 123 vibrant red torii gates cascade toward the rugged Sea of Japan coast

A Perfect Coastal Drive Through Hagi, Kasayama, and the Sea-Cliff Shrines of Yamaguchi

Few travelers venture to the far northern coast of Yamaguchi Prefecture — but those who do are rewarded with quiet fishing towns, volcanic landscapes, and shrine gates that seem to spill straight into the sea. This easy day trip blends history, natural beauty, and local culture in one unforgettable route. You’ll begin in the castle town of Hagi on the Sea of Japan, continue to the Kasayama Camellia Grove at the base of Mount Kasayama, and end at Motonosumi Inari Shrine — one of Japan’s most photogenic coastal icons.

While Yamaguchi City has recently been attracting more attention, we found the coastal city of Hagi (pronounced “Hahg-e,” not “Hazhi”) even more captivating. With just 45,000 residents, it’s a walkable, history-rich town filled with preserved samurai districts, pottery traditions, and a relaxed seaside charm you won’t find in Japan’s more crowded destinations.

Verdant rice fields outside Hagi with Mt. Kasayama in the distance.

📍 Exploring Yamaguchi City Before the Coast – If you’re starting your trip inland, Yamaguchi City offers serene temple gardens, soothing onsen baths, and local flavors worth savoring. Read Part 1 of our Yamaguchi series here.

Hagi: Where History Meets the Sea

A bird’s-eye view of Hagi and the Sea of Japan at sunset.

From above, Hagi spreads out like a tapestry—neatly gridded streets, tiled roofs, and the shimmering Sea of Japan beyond. It's a city that wears its history well.

At its heart lies the Hagi Castle Town, a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site nestled within Shizuki Park. This well-preserved district invites quiet wandering.

Strolling through Hagi’s samurai quarter, lined with earthen walls and wooden homes.

As you stroll its narrow lanes, you’ll pass traditional merchant homes, high-walled samurai residences, and the occasional peek of moss-covered tile—remnants of Japan’s feudal past. There's something about the way the old samurai quarter has been preserved, with those white-walled residences and the ancient citrus trees peeking over traditional fences, that creates this almost dreamlike atmosphere. The pace of life there feels different too - more contemplative, more connected to its history.

The past lingers in other ways, too. The calm moats and stone ramparts of the former castle remain, set against the green slopes of Mt. Shizuki.

Moats and stone walls remain from Hagi Castle, nestled at the base of Mt. Shizuki.

Hagi is definitely one of those destinations that rewards slow travel. Having time to wander the old castle town without rushing, maybe catching the morning light on the Matsumoto River, or spending an afternoon learning about the pottery traditions - that's when you really start to feel the layers of history and culture.

Nearby, the Hagi Uragami Museum offers a curated pause, showcasing delicate ukiyo-e prints and regional ceramics. Just beyond it, Tōkō-ji Temple adds a spiritual note, with rows of weathered stone lanterns that feel frozen in time.

🏯 Hagi Uragami Museum

Address: 586-1 Horiuchi, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi PrefectureHours: 9:00 AM–5:00 PM (last entry at 4:30 PM)Closed: Mondays and New Year holidaysNote: Small but well-curated museum with ukiyo-e prints and regional ceramics.

Tōkō-ji Temple’s moss-covered stone lanterns, a peaceful haven in Hagi.

🏯 Tōkō-ji Temple

Address: 1647 Chinto, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi Prefecture

Hours: 8:30 AM–5:00 PM (last entry at 4:30 PM)

Closed: Open daily

Note: Burial site of the Mori clan’s odd-numbered lords, known for its symmetrical layout, moss-covered stone lanterns, and quiet spiritual atmosphere.

Come spring, Hagi softens. Cherry blossoms bloom along the castle paths, and the forested hillsides turn lush and inviting.

Kikugahama Beach offers tranquil sea views with Mt. Shizuki in the background.

In summer, locals and visitors alike drift to the beach, where gentle surf and pale sand meet under the watchful presence of Mt. Shizuki.

But Hagi isn’t just about what you see—it’s also about what you eat. With the Sea of Japan at its doorstep and farmland stretching in every direction, the region is blessed with an abundance of fresh, local ingredients.

Two local specialties from Hagi: squid sashimi, served fresh and translucent, and grilled Mutsumi pork, known for its deep flavor and tenderness.

On the seafood side, Hagi is known for its translucent squid sashimi—delicate, gleaming, and prized for its clean, sweet flavor. Prefer meat? Don’t miss Mutsumi pork, a local specialty often grilled and served over rice. It’s tender, richly marbled, and deeply satisfying. Kenran beef also deserves mention, known for its fine texture and full-bodied flavor. Both are beloved by locals and sought after by travelers who come hungry.

Temptation awaits at Hagi Purin Tei. What flavor will you choose?

Unfortunately, we planned our lunch for after the Hagi excursion—an error we won’t repeat. The mouthwatering aromas drifting from the restaurants we passed hinted at the feast we missed. Still, we couldn’t resist a stop at Hagi Purin Tei, one of the town’s famous sweet shops. The challenge wasn’t deciding whether to indulge, but which flavor to choose. We went with the bright local orange (natsumikan) and the silky dark chocolate. Pure joy, in spoonfuls.

We didn’t have long in Hagi—but it was long enough to know we’d return. There’s a quiet richness here that rewards attention. Sometimes, a short visit is exactly what you need to realize a place deserves more. Hagi did that for us.

🌺Myojin Pond & Kasayama Camellia Grove: An Unexpected Detour

A glimpse of the rocky shore and pine trees on the way to Kasayama Camellia Grove.

Leaving Hagi behind, the road hugs the coastline as you make your way toward Mt. Kasayama. Just beyond the city’s edge, the landscape turns rugged and wild, with pine trees leaning over a rocky shore.

Twenty minutes outside Hagi, we pulled into what looked like a pretty roadside pond. A hand-painted sign promised 'Bird Feeding Experience' for ¥100, and a weathered vending machine dispensed small bags of bread chunks.

Myojin Pond, a serene stop on the drive from Hagi.

We'd seen a woman tossing bread to birds as we drove in but she left before we parked and walked to the pond. Looking around, we exchanged skeptical glances—this felt like a tourist trap.

Then we tossed the first piece skyward.

 A flurry of Tonbi (Black Kites) circling and swooping for bread above the streets near Myojin Pond.

Within seconds, the sky erupted. Black Kites materialized from nowhere—first three, then a dozen, then more than we could count. They didn't just swoop; they performed aerial ballet, snatching bread mid-flight with surgical precision while barely missing each other in a chaos of wings and calls.

 Tonbi swoops low over Myojin Pond to catch bread tossed by visitors.

What started as reluctant curiosity became pure delight. We found ourselves laughing like children, trying to throw pieces high enough to give the birds a proper challenge. Other visitors gathered, and soon the air filled with bread, birds, and the kind of spontaneous joy that makes travel memorable.

In five minutes, we'd gone from cynical tourists to converts. Sometimes the best experiences come from the most unlikely roadside stops—a reminder that in Japan, even feeding birds can become an art form

A "kettle" of kites perched overhead waiting for the next bread toss.

🌊 Myojin Pond

Address: Near 4890-1 Chinto, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi PrefectureHours: Open 24 hours; no entrance feeNote: Vending hut sells bread for feeding Black Kites (Tonbi) — fun and photogenic.

When you reach the Kasayama Camellia Grove itself, the setting shifts again. Nearly 25,000 camellia trees—spanning 60 species—form a canopy over 25 acres of coastal footpaths. We visited in December, just as the earliest blossoms were starting to appear—a quiet preview of the full bloom to come in February and March.

A tree-lined tunnel of blooming camellias invites visitors into the grove.

We weren't expecting towering camellia trees. We thought that camellias were dense, flower-laden shrubs—not these lofty, sculptural forms that reached high overhead. But Kasayama felt like stepping into an alternate botanical reality. Across the sprawling grove, tall camellia trees arched above us, their canopies interlacing like vast, steepled fingers. The effect was almost architectural, like walking through a cathedral built entirely of trees and filtered light.

What we hadn’t expected were trees—actual towering trees. We thought camellias were ornamental shrubs, not giants. But Kasayama was like a dreamscape. The camellia trunks stretch upward, their crowns lacing together high above the trails like the fingers of an open-air cathedral. We were completely alone in the grove, walking meditatively under a vaulted canopy alive with rustling leaves and petals beginning to fall.

Towering camellia trees at Kasayama form a natural cathedral of trunks and filtered light.

At one point, we reached an observation tower tucked among the trees. Doug climbed to the top—43 feet high—and waved from above. Even from that height, he was still among the upper boughs. It offered a striking perspective on just how tall and majestic these camellias are. They weren’t just beautiful—they were awe-inspiring.

The 43-foot Kasayama Observation Tower peeks above the canopy—offering a bird’s-eye view of the camellia forest and coastline beyond.

Even in early bloom, the variety was dazzling. We wandered past blossoms of every shade and shape—ruffled, rosette, speckled, and spiral—each hinting at the full botanical spectacle Kasayama will unveil in peak season.

Early-blooming camellias at Kasayama Grove

The annual Hagi Camellia Festival begins in mid-February and runs through mid-March, when the grove fills with color and activity. Guided tours, sapling vendors, and Sunday performances bring a festive energy to this otherwise tranquil coastal forest. Admission to the garden is free.

Map and visitor info at the Kasayama Camellia Grove trailhead.

Where to Eat Near the Camellia Grove

Off the parking lot,  Tsubaki no Yakata, a quaint year-round restaurant facing the sea, features a small menu of well-prepared Japanese fare. It offers beautiful views of the sea and attracts locals from miles around to eat the fresh-caught fish and other delicious dishes.

Tsubaki no Yakata, a humble but beloved seaside eatery serving fresh local fare.

🍴 Tsubaki no Yakata Restaurant

Address: 4890-1 Chinto, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi Prefecture (near Camellia Grove parking)

Hours: 11:00 AM–3:00 PM (hours may vary; often closed on weekdays) Note: Rustic seaside eatery known for fresh seafood. Japanese only; bring cash.

🛤️ Motonosumi Inari Shrine: A Coastal Icon

After exploring the Camellia Grove, a 40-minute coastal drive delivers you to one of Yamaguchi’s most iconic destinations: Motonosumi Inari Shrine. Perched high above the Sea of Japan, this cliffside sanctuary is best known for its dramatic line of torii gates—123 in total—that cascade down the rocky slope like a crimson river.

The dramatic red torii gates of Motonosumi Inari Shrine stretch down to the sea.

Built in 1955, the shrine may not be ancient, but its setting is breathtaking. Visitors come not only to pray but to marvel at the vivid contrast between the fiery red gates, deep blue sea, and jagged cliffs—a visual trifecta that’s made this one of the most photographed spiritual sites in Japan.

It’s a steep descent through 123 brilliant red torii gates.

Two elements make the experience especially memorable. First, the visual rhythm of the torii gates, which sweep down the hillside in a hypnotic arc, pulling your gaze toward the surf below. Second—and completely unique—is the shrine’s elevated offertory box, mounted atop a towering torii gate.

Tossing coins into the elevated offering box is a crowd-pleasing tradition at Motonosumi Inari

This isn’t your average coin toss. You’ll see people lining up, coins in hand, aiming skyward toward a box that seems just out of reach. Landing a coin inside takes luck and a bit of finesse—and watching others try (and try again) is half the fun. What begins as a quiet act of devotion quickly turns into something communal and lively. Laughter erupts as coins bounce off the beam. Cheers go up when someone finally lands a direct hit. Strangers who speak different languages celebrate together, bound by a shared, joyful moment.

Though incredibly photogenic, the shrine is relatively remote. If you’re driving, it fits easily into a full-day loop. But for those using public transportation, planning is essential—bus and taxi service is sparse and infrequent.

The full day trip loop from Yamaguchi City to Hagi, Kasayama, and Motonosumi Inari Shrine.

📍 Motonosumi Inari Shrine

Address: 498 Yuyatsuo, Nagato, Yamaguchi 759-4712, Japan

Hours: Shrine Grounds: Open daily from sunrise to sunset

Note: Specific hours may vary; generally, access is available from around 7:00 AM to 4:30 PM.

🌿 Venture Underground and Beyond – From the coastal cliffs to one of Japan’s largest limestone caves, Yamaguchi is full of natural wonders. Continue your journey with our guide to Akiyoshido Cave, the sweeping Akiyoshidai Plateau, and the shimmering waters of Beppu Benten Pond. Read Part 3 here.

Visit Part 3: Yamaguchi's Caves, Karsts and Cool, Clear Water

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