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Part 2: A Yamaguchi Day Trip — Hagi, Camellias & Motonosumi Shrine

  • Writer: By Zen Gaijin
    By Zen Gaijin
  • Jan 16
  • 5 min read

Updated: 2 days ago



A Perfect Coastal Drive Through Hagi, Kasayama, and the Sea-Cliff Shrines of Yamaguchi

It’s an easy day trip through some of Yamaguchi Prefecture’s most scenic and culturally rich spots. Start with the historic charm of Hagi on the Sea of Japan, then head up the coast to the Kasayama Camellia Grove nestled at the base of Mount Kasayama. From there, continue west to Motonosumi Inari Shrine—one of Japan’s most photogenic coastal icons.


While Yamaguchi City has been receiving plenty of attention lately, we found the coastal city of Hagi (pronounced “Hahg-e,” not “Hazhi”) even more captivating. This charming and accessible city of about 45,000 residents boasts a rich historical and cultural heritage.

Panoramic view of rice paddies framed by forested mountains near Hagi, Yamaguchi Prefecture.
Verdant rice fields outside Hagi with Mt. Kasayama in the distance.

Hagi: Where History Meets the Sea

Aerial image of Hagi City at dusk with soft pink skies and islands dotting the coastline.
A bird’s-eye view of Hagi and the Sea of Japan at sunset.

From above, Hagi spreads out like a tapestry—neatly gridded streets, tiled roofs, and the shimmering Sea of Japan beyond. It's a city that wears its history well.


At its heart lies the Hagi Castle Town, a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site nestled within Shizuki Park. This well-preserved district invites quiet wandering.


Narrow street in Hagi's samurai district bordered by stone and wooden residential walls.
Strolling through Hagi’s samurai quarter, lined with earthen walls and wooden homes.

As you stroll its narrow lanes, you’ll pass traditional merchant homes, high-walled samurai residences, and the occasional peek of moss-covered tile—remnants of Japan’s feudal past.


The past lingers in other ways, too. The calm moats and stone ramparts of the former castle remain, set against the green slopes of Mt. Shizuki.

Calm moat waters reflecting the stone walls of Hagi Castle ruins.
Moats and stone walls remain from Hagi Castle, nestled at the base of Mt. Shizuki.

Nearby, the Hagi Uragami Museum offers a curated pause, showcasing delicate ukiyo-e prints and regional ceramics. Just beyond it, Tōkō-ji Temple adds a spiritual note, with rows of weathered stone lanterns that feel frozen in time.


🏯 Hagi Uragami Museum

Address: 586-1 Horiuchi, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi PrefectureHours: 9:00 AM–5:00 PM (last entry at 4:30 PM)Closed: Mondays and New Year holidaysNote: Small but well-curated museum with ukiyo-e prints and regional ceramics.


Path lined with historic stone lanterns at Tōkō-ji Temple during autumn foliage.
Tōkō-ji Temple’s moss-covered stone lanterns, a peaceful haven in Hagi.

🏯 Tōkō-ji Temple

Address: 1647 Chinto, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi Prefecture

Hours: 8:30 AM–5:00 PM (last entry at 4:30 PM)

Closed: Open daily

Note: Burial site of the Mori clan’s odd-numbered lords, known for its symmetrical layout, moss-covered stone lanterns, and quiet spiritual atmosphere.


Come spring, Hagi softens. Cherry blossoms bloom along the castle paths, and the forested hillsides turn lush and inviting.

Soft waves and golden sand at Kikugahama Beach in Hagi, with forested hills in the distance.
Kikugahama Beach offers tranquil sea views with Mt. Shizuki in the background.

In summer, locals and visitors alike drift to the beach, where gentle surf and pale sand meet under the watchful presence of Mt. Shizuki.


But Hagi isn’t just about what you see—it’s also about what you eat. With the Sea of Japan at its doorstep and farmland stretching in every direction, the region is blessed with an abundance of fresh, local ingredients.


Two local specialties from Hagi: squid sashimi, served fresh and translucent, and grilled Mutsumi pork, known for its deep flavor and tenderness.


On the seafood side, translucent squid sashimi is a delicacy, celebrated for its purity of flavor. Prefer meat? Hagi’s Mutsumi pork, often served grilled over rice, is tender and richly marbled. Alongside it, Kenran beef stands out for its fine texture and depth—both favorites among locals and visitors alike.



🌺 Kasayama Camellia Grove


Windswept pine branches frame the sea at Kasayama Camellia Grove.
A glimpse of the rocky shore and pine trees near Kasayama Camellia Grove.

Leaving Hagi behind, the road hugs the coastline as you make your way toward Mt. Kasayama. Just beyond the city’s edge, the landscape turns rugged and wild, with pine trees leaning over a rocky shore.


One worthwhile stop along the way is Myojin Pond—quiet, reflective, and oddly lively.


Traditional stone lantern overlooking the still waters of Myojin Pond.
Myojin Pond, a serene stop on the drive from Hagi.

For just ¥100, you can buy bread and toss it skyward. In moments, a kettle of Tonbi—Black Kites—will appear, swooping with astonishing precision to snatch the pieces mid-air.

Black Kites circling above a coastal town in Yamaguchi Prefecture.
 A flurry of Tonbi (Black Kites) above the streets near Myojin Pond.
Close-up of a Black Kite in flight above a green pond and stone lantern.
 Tonbi swoops low over Myojin Pond to catch bread tossed by visitors.
A line of Black Kites perched on an electric wire against a cloudy sky.
A kettle of kites perched overhead near the Camellia Grove.

🌊 Myojin Pond

Address: Near 4890-1 Chinto, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi PrefectureHours: Open 24 hours; no entrance feeNote: Vending hut sells bread for feeding Black Kites (Tonbi) — fun and photogenic.


When you reach the grove itself, the setting shifts again. Nearly 25,000 camellia trees—spanning 60 species—form a canopy over 10 acres of coastal footpaths. We visited in December, just as the earliest blossoms were starting to appear—a quiet preview of the full bloom to come in February and March.

Directional sign with map and text for Mt. Kasayama Camellia Grove in Hagi.
Map and visitor info at the Kasayama Camellia Grove trailhead.

The annual Hagi Camellia Festival begins in mid-February and runs through mid-March, when the grove fills with color and activity. Guided tours, sapling vendors, and Sunday performances bring a festive energy to this otherwise tranquil coastal forest. Admission to the garden is free.


Walking path through camellia trees with red petals scattered on the ground.
A tree-lined tunnel of blooming camellias invites visitors into the grove.

Here's a sampling of the camellias we saw in December--before peak season.

Collage of red, pink, and variegated camellia flowers in bloom.
Early-blooming camellias at Kasayama Grove

Where to Eat Near the Camellia Grove

Off the parking lot,  Tsubaki no Yakata, a quaint year-round restaurant facing the sea, features a small menu of well-prepared Japanese fare. It offers beautiful views of the sea and attracts locals from miles around to eat the fresh-caught fish and other delicious dishes.

Small green-roofed restaurant by the sea in Hagi with inset photo of its simple interior dining area.
Tsubaki no Yakata, a humble but beloved seaside eatery serving fresh local fare.

🍴 Tsubaki no Yakata Restaurant

Address: 4890-1 Chinto, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi Prefecture (near Camellia Grove parking)

Hours: 11:00 AM–3:00 PM (hours may vary; often closed on weekdays) Note: Rustic seaside eatery known for fresh seafood. Japanese only; bring cash.


🛤️ Motonosumi Inari Shrine: A Coastal Icon

After exploring the Camellia Grove, a 40-minute coastal drive brings you to one of Yamaguchi’s most iconic destinations: Motonosumi Inari Shrine. Perched above the Sea of Japan, this cliffside sanctuary is best known for its dramatic line of torii gates — 123 in total — that wind down the rocky slope like a crimson river.


Bright red torii gates winding down a coastal cliffside toward the Sea of Japan.
The dramatic red torii gates of Motonosumi Inari Shrine stretch down to the sea.

Built in 1955, the shrine may not be ancient, but its setting is breathtaking. Visitors arrive not only to pray but to witness the powerful contrast of red gates, blue sea, and rugged cliffs — a scene that’s made the shrine one of Japan’s most photographed spiritual sites.


Visitors walking down stone steps under a tunnel of red torii gates at Motonosumi Inari Shrine.
It’s a steep descent through 123 brilliant red torii gates.

Two features contribute to its widespread appeal. First, the natural layout: the torii gates spill down the hillside in a cascading arc, drawing the eye straight toward the waves below. The second is a charming bit of Shinto interactivity — the offertory box isn’t at ground level but mounted high atop a large torii gate. Visitors toss coins high into the air in hopes they’ll land in the box.


Visitors trying to throw coins into a high offertory box atop a torii gate at Motonosumi Inari Shrine.
Tossing coins into the elevated offering box is a crowd-pleasing tradition at Motonosumi Inari

More than a religious act, it’s a joyful moment that blends reverence with play. The laughter of children and cheers of hopeful adults are as much a part of the experience as the stunning views.


Though incredibly photogenic, the shrine is relatively remote. If you’re driving, it’s easy to add to a day trip loop. But public transport options are limited — planning is essential for non-drivers, especially since bus and taxi service is infrequent.

Google Map screenshot showing a driving route through Yamaguchi Prefecture from Yamaguchi City to coastal highlights.
The full day trip loop from Yamaguchi City to Hagi, Kasayama, and Motonosumi Inari Shrine.

📍 Motonosumi Inari Shrine

Address: 498 Yuyatsuo, Nagato, Yamaguchi 759-4712, JapanHours: Shrine Grounds: Open daily from sunrise to sunsetNote: Specific hours may vary; generally, access is available from around 7:00 AM to 4:30 PM.





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