Part 2: A Yamaguchi Day Trip — Hagi, Camellias & Motonosumi Shrine
- By Zen Gaijin
- Jan 16
- 5 min read
Updated: 3 days ago
A Perfect Coastal Drive Through Hagi, Kasayama, and the Sea-Cliff Shrines of Yamaguchi
It’s an easy day trip through some of Yamaguchi Prefecture’s most scenic and culturally rich spots. Start with the historic charm of Hagi on the Sea of Japan, then head up the coast to the Kasayama Camellia Grove nestled at the base of Mount Kasayama. From there, continue west to Motonosumi Inari Shrine—one of Japan’s most photogenic coastal icons.
While Yamaguchi City has been receiving plenty of attention lately, we found the coastal city of Hagi (pronounced “Hahg-e,” not “Hazhi”) even more captivating. This charming and accessible city of about 45,000 residents boasts a rich historical and cultural heritage.
Hagi: Where History Meets the Sea
From above, Hagi spreads out like a tapestry—neatly gridded streets, tiled roofs, and the shimmering Sea of Japan beyond. It's a city that wears its history well.
At its heart lies the Hagi Castle Town, a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site nestled within Shizuki Park. This well-preserved district invites quiet wandering.
As you stroll its narrow lanes, you’ll pass traditional merchant homes, high-walled samurai residences, and the occasional peek of moss-covered tile—remnants of Japan’s feudal past.
The past lingers in other ways, too. The calm moats and stone ramparts of the former castle remain, set against the green slopes of Mt. Shizuki.
Nearby, the Hagi Uragami Museum offers a curated pause, showcasing delicate ukiyo-e prints and regional ceramics. Just beyond it, Tōkō-ji Temple adds a spiritual note, with rows of weathered stone lanterns that feel frozen in time.
🏯 Hagi Uragami Museum
Address: 586-1 Horiuchi, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi PrefectureHours: 9:00 AM–5:00 PM (last entry at 4:30 PM)Closed: Mondays and New Year holidaysNote: Small but well-curated museum with ukiyo-e prints and regional ceramics.
🏯 Tōkō-ji Temple
Address: 1647 Chinto, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi Prefecture
Hours: 8:30 AM–5:00 PM (last entry at 4:30 PM)
Closed: Open daily
Note: Burial site of the Mori clan’s odd-numbered lords, known for its symmetrical layout, moss-covered stone lanterns, and quiet spiritual atmosphere.
Come spring, Hagi softens. Cherry blossoms bloom along the castle paths, and the forested hillsides turn lush and inviting.
In summer, locals and visitors alike drift to the beach, where gentle surf and pale sand meet under the watchful presence of Mt. Shizuki.
But Hagi isn’t just about what you see—it’s also about what you eat. With the Sea of Japan at its doorstep and farmland stretching in every direction, the region is blessed with an abundance of fresh, local ingredients.
Two local specialties from Hagi: squid sashimi, served fresh and translucent, and grilled Mutsumi pork, known for its deep flavor and tenderness.
On the seafood side, translucent squid sashimi is a delicacy, celebrated for its purity of flavor. Prefer meat? Hagi’s Mutsumi pork, often served grilled over rice, is tender and richly marbled. Alongside it, Kenran beef stands out for its fine texture and depth—both favorites among locals and visitors alike.
🌺 Kasayama Camellia Grove
Leaving Hagi behind, the road hugs the coastline as you make your way toward Mt. Kasayama. Just beyond the city’s edge, the landscape turns rugged and wild, with pine trees leaning over a rocky shore.
One worthwhile stop along the way is Myojin Pond—quiet, reflective, and oddly lively.
For just ¥100, you can buy bread and toss it skyward. In moments, a kettle of Tonbi—Black Kites—will appear, swooping with astonishing precision to snatch the pieces mid-air.
🌊 Myojin Pond
Address: Near 4890-1 Chinto, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi PrefectureHours: Open 24 hours; no entrance feeNote: Vending hut sells bread for feeding Black Kites (Tonbi) — fun and photogenic.
When you reach the grove itself, the setting shifts again. Nearly 25,000 camellia trees—spanning 60 species—form a canopy over 10 acres of coastal footpaths. We visited in December, just as the earliest blossoms were starting to appear—a quiet preview of the full bloom to come in February and March.
The annual Hagi Camellia Festival begins in mid-February and runs through mid-March, when the grove fills with color and activity. Guided tours, sapling vendors, and Sunday performances bring a festive energy to this otherwise tranquil coastal forest. Admission to the garden is free.
Here's a sampling of the camellias we saw in December--before peak season.
Where to Eat Near the Camellia Grove
Off the parking lot, Tsubaki no Yakata, a quaint year-round restaurant facing the sea, features a small menu of well-prepared Japanese fare. It offers beautiful views of the sea and attracts locals from miles around to eat the fresh-caught fish and other delicious dishes.
🍴 Tsubaki no Yakata Restaurant
Address: 4890-1 Chinto, Hagi-shi, Yamaguchi Prefecture (near Camellia Grove parking)
Hours: 11:00 AM–3:00 PM (hours may vary; often closed on weekdays) Note: Rustic seaside eatery known for fresh seafood. Japanese only; bring cash.
🛤️ Motonosumi Inari Shrine: A Coastal Icon
After exploring the Camellia Grove, a 40-minute coastal drive brings you to one of Yamaguchi’s most iconic destinations: Motonosumi Inari Shrine. Perched above the Sea of Japan, this cliffside sanctuary is best known for its dramatic line of torii gates — 123 in total — that wind down the rocky slope like a crimson river.
Built in 1955, the shrine may not be ancient, but its setting is breathtaking. Visitors arrive not only to pray but to witness the powerful contrast of red gates, blue sea, and rugged cliffs — a scene that’s made the shrine one of Japan’s most photographed spiritual sites.
Two features contribute to its widespread appeal. First, the natural layout: the torii gates spill down the hillside in a cascading arc, drawing the eye straight toward the waves below. The second is a charming bit of Shinto interactivity — the offertory box isn’t at ground level but mounted high atop a large torii gate. Visitors toss coins high into the air in hopes they’ll land in the box.
More than a religious act, it’s a joyful moment that blends reverence with play. The laughter of children and cheers of hopeful adults are as much a part of the experience as the stunning views.
Though incredibly photogenic, the shrine is relatively remote. If you’re driving, it’s easy to add to a day trip loop. But public transport options are limited — planning is essential for non-drivers, especially since bus and taxi service is infrequent.
📍 Motonosumi Inari Shrine
Address: 498 Yuyatsuo, Nagato, Yamaguchi 759-4712, JapanHours: Shrine Grounds: Open daily from sunrise to sunsetNote: Specific hours may vary; generally, access is available from around 7:00 AM to 4:30 PM.
