Iki Island Travel Guide: Myth, Hot Springs & Hidden Japan
- By Zen Gaijin
- Dec 29, 2024
- 9 min read
Updated: 1 day ago
Introduction: Why Iki Island?
With more than 14,000 islands in Japan, how do you choose just one to spotlight on your next trip? For us, Iki Island wasn’t a random pick—it was a destination that quietly captured our imaginations and then, unexpectedly, our hearts.
Tucked between Kyushu and South Korea in the Tsushima Strait, Iki is small—just 17 kilometers long—but it holds centuries of history, spiritual depth, natural beauty, and some of the best food we’ve had anywhere in Japan. Over several days, we explored windswept coastlines, ancient burial sites, and quiet shrines tucked under leafy canopies. We ate like royalty and bathed like emperors. And we left with that rare feeling of having discovered something both personal and profound.

If you’re looking for an island experience that goes far beyond the usual tropical postcard, Iki might just be your place too.
Geography & Getting There: Closer Than You Think
Iki Island sits quietly in the Tsushima Strait, just off the coast of Kyushu and closer to South Korea than to Tokyo. It spans about 17 kilometers north to south and 15 kilometers east to west—compact enough to explore thoroughly, but big enough to feel like its own world.

The landscape is a patchwork of gently rolling hills, quiet fishing villages, and wide-open views of the sea. The island’s highest point, Mount Takanotsuji, rises just 212 meters, but from the summit, you can see a sweeping panorama of green slopes and blue water in every direction. We stood there for a while, just watching clouds drift across the horizon.

Getting to Iki is surprisingly easy.
From Nagasaki, a short 30-minute flight gets you there.
From Fukuoka’s Hakata Port, ferries run regularly, with options ranging from a 1-hour high-speed jetfoil to a slower 2.5-hour car ferry.
We took the ferry from Hakata Port—an unforgettable start to the journey
We opted for the ferry from Fukuoka and were glad we did. Gliding across open water toward a place we'd never seen before made the journey feel like part of the adventure. Once on the island, renting a car is a must. Public transit exists but is limited, and the freedom to follow your curiosity—to pull over when you see something intriguing—makes all the difference.
Driving here is a pleasure. Light traffic, ocean views, and winding roads that curve through rice fields and pine groves. We lost track of time more than once, and that was kind of the point.
Ancient Roots & Sacred Ground: Iki’s Hidden Depth
Iki may look unassuming on a map, but its story runs deep. Really deep.
Archaeologists have traced human habitation here back to the Japanese Paleolithic era—tens of thousands of years ago. Artifacts from the Jomon, Yayoi, and Kofun periods have all been unearthed on the island, and walking through its quiet forests and rocky coastlines, you start to feel just how long people have been living—and believing—on this land.

In Japanese mythology, Iki is considered the fifth island created by the gods when Japan was born. That sense of origin, of cosmic importance, still lingers. You don’t just visit Iki; you step into a living cultural landscape.
We felt this most strongly not in one grand temple or tourist site, but in the quiet abundance of shrines that dot the island—over 150 of them. Locals refer to Iki as a “power spot,” and whether or not you subscribe to spiritual energy, it’s hard to ignore the quiet gravity of some of these places.

We encountered tiny jizō statues tucked into roadside alcoves, each with a red bib and an expression worn soft by time. We saw sacred rocks where no one dares step, shrines only accessible at low tide, and torii gates silhouetted against the sea. One afternoon, we turned a corner and found a small ceremony in progress—no tourists, just island residents chanting softly beneath ancient trees.
There’s a spiritual intimacy here that’s hard to put into words. But if you give Iki time, it reveals itself—not all at once, but in moments that stay with you.
Our 6 “Musts” on Iki Island
Iki is full of wonders, but these are the six experiences that stayed with us—and that we would return for without hesitation. They’re not just sights to check off; they’re places where something shifted, where we felt more connected to the island, its people, and its rhythms.
1. Saruiwa: The Monkey Rock That Anchors the Island

Legend says Iki once floated untethered between Japan and the Korean Peninsula—until the gods pinned it in place with heavenly pillars. One of those, according to myth, is Saruiwa: a 135-foot sea stack shaped like a monkey in profile.
It’s strange how something so solid can feel so otherworldly. We stood beneath it as wind stirred the sea mist and the setting sun backlit the cliffs, and it felt like we’d stepped into one of Japan’s oldest stories. If you love places where myth and nature blur, this is one not to miss.
2. Harahoge Jizō: Stone Guardians of the Sea

At Yahataura, where the ocean meets the lives of ama divers and fishermen, six small jizō statues stand partly submerged at high tide. They watch the horizon with quiet determination.
Seeing them felt unexpectedly emotional. These guardians honor the lives lost to the sea—including whales once hunted and ama who never surfaced.
They’re worn by salt and time, but still standing. It’s not a big stop. But it’s a powerful one. We left feeling hushed.
3. Tatsunoshima: A Wild Little Island Worth the Detour
We took a 40-minute boat tour around this uninhabited islet off Iki’s coast—and it turned out to be one of the most exhilarating experiences of our visit.

The beach is shaped like a crescent, its sand blindingly white against clear turquoise water. Kids on the boat leaned over to watch swirling currents and sea caves while fishermen scaled cliffs to cast their lines into the surf. It felt untouched, raw, and playful all at once.

If you’re visiting from March to November, take the boat tour from Katsumoto Port—you’ll be glad you did.
4. Yunomoto Onsen: Where the Island Slows Down
We have bathed in many Japanese hot springs, but Yunomoto was something else—quiet, unhurried, with a sense of being completely outside time.
There are 14 small facilities here, each drawing from its own mineral spring. We stayed in one with an open-air bath overlooking distant islands, and watched the light change across the water as the sun dipped low. Unlike places like Hakone or Beppu, there are no crowds, no rush—just deep warmth and quiet.

Local legend says imperial babies once had their first baths here. We don’t know if that’s true, but we left feeling like something had been gently reset
5. Ikikoku Museum: Ancient Life, Modern Design

Perched low in the hills, this museum by architect Kisho Kurokawa is so subtle, it nearly disappears into the landscape—until you spot the lighthouse-like observation tower rising above it. Inside, it holds treasures that span thousands of years.

What we loved most were the Yayoi-era village dioramas. They’re incredibly detailed, oddly funny, and even interactive—some characters move with the push of a button. What’s more, their faces are modeled on real contemporary Iki residents, adding a strangely intimate twist.

We spent more time here than expected. It’s immersive and unexpectedly personal—just like the island itself.

6. The Taste of Iki: Tomatoes, Wagyu, and Uni
Most travelers rave about Iki’s seafood—and they should. But my first bite of an Iki tomato stopped me in my tracks. Grown only here, with seeds protected and distribution tightly controlled, these small, bright red tomatoes are incredibly sweet and firm. They taste more like fruit than salad.

And then there’s the beef. Iki Wagyu isn’t flashy or fatty—it’s balanced, richly flavored, and beautifully raised in pristine pastures. Fewer than 1,000 cattle are shipped annually, so it’s rare, even in Japan.
Ask the finest chefs in Japan about Iki Beef, and you'll witness a reverent pause, a moment of worship, so to speak. They’ll close their eyes, take a deep breath, and with a soft sigh, say, 'Ah, Iki Beef,' as they call a peak culinary experience to mind—a taste that transcends the ordinary and lingers in memory.

If you're visiting in season (mid-April to October), seek out fresh uni harvested by ama divers using ancient techniques. While Hokkaido is often celebrated for its sea urchins, those who experience the exquisite flavors of Iki's uni understand why it is regarded as the finest in Japan. It’s buttery, oceanic, and unforgettable. You’ll never look at sea urchin the same way again.


Iki has more to offer than we can fit in one post—but these six experiences are the ones we'd come back for in a heartbeat. Each gave us something different: a moment of wonder, a quiet reflection, a surprising taste, or simply the sense of time well spent.
Where to Stay on Iki Island
While Iki offers a range of accommodations, one place rose so far above the rest that we still dream about it: Iki Retreat Kairi Murakami by Onko Chishin. This refined ryokan, recognized in the Michelin Guide as a “5 Pavilion Ryokan,” is more than a luxury stay—it’s a quiet revelation.
From the outside, its modest facade gives little away. But step inside, and you’re enveloped in a space that feels both timeless and intimate. The design marries Japanese minimalism with subtle Western touches, creating a calm, sophisticated retreat that invites you to exhale.

Every room features floor-to-ceiling windows that frame the Genkai Sea—rugged cliffs, fishing boats drifting across the horizon, and light that shifts from hour to hour. It’s like staying inside a living seascape.

The details here speak volumes:
Private Onsen: Each suite has its own open-air bath fed by natural hot spring water.
Culinary Excellence: Multi-course kaiseki meals celebrate local ingredients, from sea urchin to rare Iki tomatoes and wagyu.
Thoughtful Hospitality: Every interaction with the staff feels personal and sincere.
Experiences Just for Guests: Activities range from sea kayaking to firefly tours, kite painting, and pottery.
Even meals here feel meditative—seasonal kaiseki cuisine served with sweeping sea views.
We stayed four nights. It wasn’t enough. By the end, we were already planning how soon we could come back—and maybe never leave. Iki Retreat doesn’t just pamper you; it quietly reorients your sense of time, beauty, and what it means to feel truly rested.
Final Thoughts: A Small Island That Leaves a Big Impression
Iki may not shout for attention—but it rewards those who listen. It’s a place where history isn’t behind glass, where myths feel anchored in the land itself, and where flavors and landscapes stay with you long after you’ve left.
After several days here, we weren’t ready to go. But the good news? There’s more just across the water.
Where Next? Cross the Strait to Yamaguchi
If you're continuing your journey across the Kanmon Straits, Yamaguchi Prefecture is just a short hop away and packed with wonders of its own—serene onsen towns, ancient temples, coastal shrines, and the finest fugu in Japan.
Start your Yamaguchi adventure here, or dive deeper into coastal culture and shrines. Want something even wilder? From otherworldly caves to karst plateaus and pristine spring-fed ponds, Part 3 of our Yamaguchi journey explores the natural wonders that feel more sci-fi than sightseeing.